Day planning Japan trip Kyoto, Kumano Kodo, Osaka, Kobe, Tokyo

I was lucky enough to go on a 12-day (from June 2nd till June 14th) solo trip to Japan to see Tokyo, Kyoto, Osaka, but above all, to hike the famous Kumano Kodo pilgrimage trail and acquire some serious chunks of foodcomaness because of the amazing food. So, here’s my (pretty detailed) day planning for the 12 days in Japan (and what I eventually ended up doing) – my day planning Japan.

Day 1: Tokyo, heading Kyoto

Take it easy – first exploration of Kyoto.

• Morning
  I arrived with an early flight (08h40) from Amsterdam and had not to stay in Tokyo, but directly to travel on to Kyoto (and spend some time in Tokyo at the end of my trip).
  The 09h31-13h17 Shinkansen bullet train took me directly to Kyoto.
• Lunch
  I had a quick lunch at a ramen place close to the AirBnB.
• Afternoon
  I went for an afternoon run, as I like to do when arriving in a new city, especially with a jet lag. Striking to see how ruthless Japanese runners go out for a run – it seemed like every single one of them was racing for their life.
  After that, I had a look at Kyoto Station and Kyoto Tower.
• Evening
  I just had a stroll around town and went to bed early.
• Night
  I spent the night at a really nice AirBnB, owned by an American University teacher, his Japanese wife and their toddler.

Day 2: Kyoto

Spend the day exploring Kyoto.

• Breakfast
  I just had a quick bento box on my way around town.
• Morning
  I spent the morning in the Southern Higashiyama area to visit the Kiyomizudera temple, Chion-in and Maruyama-koen.
• Lunch
  Nishiki Market.
• Afternoon
  I spent the afternoon in the Northern Higashiyama area to visit Nanzen-ji, Path of Philosophy, Honen-in an Ginkaku-ji.
• Dinner 
  Dinner in the Ponto-cho area.
• Evening
  Walk around Ponto-cho.
• Night
  I spent the night at the same AirBnB.

Day 3: Kyoto

Spend the day exploring Kyoto.

• Breakfast
  I just had a quick bento box on my way around town.
• Morning
  I spent the morning in Arashiyama and Sagano, visiting Tenryu-ji, Arashiyama Bamboo Grove, Okochi Sanso and Gio-ji.
• Lunch
  I had lunch in the same area.
• Afternoon
  I spent the afternoon in Kuruma.
• Dinner 
  Dinner in the Gion area.
• Evening
  I had planned to spend the evening in Gion and do some Shijo avenue shopping, but by chance, I was invited by the AirBnB host to visit a Belgian Beer Festival in Osaka, so I joined him and his friends.
• Night
  I spent the night at the same AirBnB.

Day 4: Kyoto, heading Tanabe (Kumano Kodo)

Morning in Kyoto, in the afternoon traveling towards Tanabe near the trailhead of Kumano Kodo.

• Breakfast
  No special plans.
• Morning
  Early morning to Fushimi Inari Taisha (be sure to be early to avoid all the other tourists).
• Lunch
  No special plans.
• Afternoon
  This would be an afternoon with a lot of traveling.
  14h27-14h40 I took the train from Kyoto to Shin-Osaka.
  I left my suitcase with gear in Osaka, to travel with only my hiking gear to Tanabe.
  15h15-17h28 I traveled from Shin-Osaka to KiiTanabe and made sure to sit on the right hand side of the train for the best views (the train even has rotating chairs to ensure the best views).
  Just before closing time (18h00) I got some last minute hiking maps.
• Dinner
  Tanabe outside high season isn’t too busy or vibrant. I had planned to eat somewhere near the train station, and I eventually stumbled upon Kanteki (see my post about Kanteki). It was one of the best food experiences I ever had, because of it’s raw authentic omakase experience (see more on omakase).
• Evening
  

   

  • Ueshiba Morihei Gravesite (founder Aikido) http://www.tb-kumano.jp/en/aikido/ueshiba_morihei_gravesite/
  • Buy lunch for the next day in the store close to the ryokan.
• Night
  I spent the night in Tanabe’s Miyoshiya-Ryokan.

Day 5: First day on the Kumano Kodo

Today was the first day of my Kumano Kodo hike, from Takijiri to Tsugizakura (a total of 17 kilometers).

• Breakfast
  Tanabe Miyoshiya-Ryokan
• Morning
  After taking the bus from Tanabe to the trailhead at Takijiri-oji, I could get started on the first stage, from Takijiri-oji to Tsugizakura-oji.
• Lunch
  Food bought from the store the night before.
• Afternoon
  Rest of first stage. The Tanabe Tourism office stressed that I should arrive at the ryokan before 17h00 (because of darkness on the trail).
• Dinner 
  Dinner in the ryokan Minshuku Nonaka Sanso.
• Evening
  Chillings.
• Night
  Sleep at ryokan Minshuku Nonaka Sanso (20 minutes hike from the trail downhill).

Day 6: Second day on the Kumano Kodo

The second day of my Kumano Kodo hike, from Tsugizakura to Yunomine via Kumano Hongu Taisha (a total of 24 kilometers).

• Breakfast
  Breakfast at the ryokan Minshuku Nonaka Sanso
• Morning
  After a 15minute hike uphill back to the trail, I could get started on the second stage from Tsugizakura-oji to Kumano Hongu Taisha and on to Yunomine.
• Lunch
  Minshuku Nonaka Sanso supplied an amazingly tasty lunch.
• Afternoon
  Continuation of the second stage from Tsugizakura-oji to Kumano Hongu Taisha.
  Visit the amazing shrine in Hongu and the Oyunohara.
  I bought some food for the trail the next day before continuing my hike to Yunomine.
  After arriving at the Yoshinoya Ryokan, I visited their super relaxed onsen.
• Dinner
  Dinner at Yoshinoya Ryokan. I eventually had a late night snack in town after my onsen visit.
• Evening
  After dinner, I paid a visit to the legend Tsuboyu Bath (World Heritage).
• Night
  Sleep in Yoshinoya Ryokan.

Day 7: Third day on the Kumano Kodo

My third and final day of my Kumano Kodo hike, from . 

• Breakfast
  Breakfast at the ryokan Yoshinoya Ryokan.
• Morning
  I took the 06h55-07h55 bus from Yunomine to the start of the trail in Koguchi and bought some essential groceries in the Koguchi Minakata shop in Koguchi.
  After that, it was the 14.5km Ogumotori section from Koguchi to Kumano Nachi Taisha.
• Lunch
  Quick lunch as bought in Koguchi.
• Afternoon
  The 14.5km Ogumotori section Koguchi – Kumano Nachi Taisha, including the tough Daimon-zaka climb and visiting the breathtaking Nachi falls.
  I was a bit in a rush as I needed to get in time to Kii Katsuura to catch my train to Osaka, so I had an afternoon bus to Kii Katsuura station (16:26-16:50).
• Dinner
  Eat/buy near Kii Katsuura station.
• Evening
  Train from Kii Katsura to Osaka: 18h10 Kii Katsuura > Osaka 22h12, transfer in Tennoji
• Night
  Sleep in New Japan Capsule Hotel Cabana in Osaka.

Day 8: Osaka, Kobe

My first day in Osaka.

• Breakfast
  Breakfast on my way to Kobe.
• Morning
  Travel to Kobe (30min), visit Kobe Harborland, Kobe Nunobiki Herb Garden & Ropeway, Nunobiki Falls (Nunobiki-No-Taki), Rokko Cablecar.
• Lunch
  13h00 Kobe Plaisir Kobe Beef for some real Kobe beef.
• Afternoon
  Stroll through Osaka.
• Dinner
  Dinner in Osaka.
• Evening
  Kuromon Market, Namba, Dotonburi
• Night
  Sleep in New Japan Capsule Hotel Cabana in Osaka.

Day 9: Osaka

• Breakfast
  Nothing special.
• Morning
  Spend some time strolling through Osaka.
• Lunch
  Fugu/puffer fish in Zuboraya (http://www.zuboraya.co.jp Dotonbori, Chuo-ku, Osaka-shi, Osaka, 542-0071, Japan)
• Afternoon
  Shinsaibashi
• Dinner
  Dinner somwhere near Shinsaibashi or Dotombori Area.
• Evening
  Dotombori Area.
• Night
  Sleep in New Japan Capsule Hotel Cabana in Osaka.

Day 10: Osaka, Tokyo

• Breakfast
  Quick breakfast at train station. Drop my suitcase at the luggage storage there.
• Morning
  10h00-12h00 Asics run with Asics team.
• Lunch
  Bento box on the train.
• Afternoon
  Train to Tokyo, 13h23-16h23 Travel Tokyo Yomogi.
• Dinner
  17h15 Robot restaurant dinner.
• Evening
  This evening turned out into one of my best omakase experiences ever. I met an Australian girl in the Robot restaurant and we decided on a spontaneous bar crawl. We eventually ended up with a group of 6, visiting the most obscure Tokyo bars.
• Night
  Sleep in AirBnB in Shibuya area (AirBnB is closed now).

Day 11: Tokyo

• Breakfast
  Hungover, skipped breakfast.
• Morning
  Shibuya tour by my AirBnB host.
• Lunch
  Lunch in Shibuya.
• Afternoon
  Explored different parts of the city.
• Dinner
  Nothing special
• Evening
  Explored different parts of the city.
• Night
  Sleep in AirBnB in Shibuya area (AirBnB is closed now).

Day 12: Tokyo

• Breakfast
  05h00 Tsukiji Fish Market (tried to get into Tuna auction)
• Morning
  Explored different parts of the city.
• Lunch
  Nothing special.
• Afternoon
  Explored different parts of the city.
• Dinner/Evening
  I met up with an old friend of my mother and she showed me around town. We had some amazing sushi, we went to an eel-only restaurant and tasted some amazing sake.
• Night
  Sleep in AirBnB in Shibuya area (AirBnB is closed now).

Day 13: Heading back home

• Breakfast
  Breakfast bento box in town.
• Morning
  10h30 flight back from Tokyo to Amsterdam.